Come with me to find out what to see and do in Montparnasse. Montparnasse has not really been on my preferred list of places to stay whilst in Paris. But now, after a short visit one trip with children in tow and just recently a longer stay on my way through to the northwest countryside of Brittany, I found lots to see and do.
What to See and Do in Montparnasse
Here's my round up of what to see and do in Montparnasse - I'm sure you'll find lots to interest you whether you're there for a few hours or a few days. Mostly in the 14th arrondissement, Montparnasse has been called the bohemian centre of Paris.
The diverse range of restaurants, a legacy of art, historic streets, gardens and one of the largest cemeteries in Paris (home to some very famous people) plus the skyscraper of all Parisian skyscrapers, are waiting to be discovered in Montparnasse.
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Tour Montparnasse
After the Eiffel Tower, the Tour Maine-Montparnasse, more commonly called Tour Montparnasse, is probably the most well known structure to break the skyline of Paris. The tower is a 210 metre office skyscraper located in the Montparnasse area of Paris and was constructed from 1969 to 1973. It was the tallest skyscraper in France until 2011 when this title was earned by the 231 metre high Tour First.
The Tour First is another office skyscraper. It's in Courbevoie in Le Défense, the business district of Paris and was built in 1974 for the UAP Insurance company.
The go-ahead for the Tour Montparnasse took a long time due to concerns about its height, impact on the city skyline and other factors. In fact, it took nine years of planning before construction permission was granted. The original idea was floated in 1959, construction eventually beginning in 1969 when President Georges Pompidou gave the green light. His view was to modernise the capital and to assist in the major redevelopment of the expanding business neighbourhood.
Location: 33 Avenue du Maine, Montparnasse
The Liberation of Paris Museum - General Leclerc Museum - Jean Moulin Museum
In honor of the 75th anniversary of the Liberation of Paris, the Musée de la Libération de Paris - Musée du Général Leclerc - Musée Jean Moulin was inaugurated on Place Denfert-Rochereau.
The aim of the museum is to help visitors discover the importance of this time in history through the journey of two very different men, Jean Moulin and Philippe de Hauteclocque. Their common goal was the liberation of France, of which the Liberation of Paris played a prominent role.
As part of the museum exhibitions and attractions you can tour underground to the defence shelter which was used as a command headquarters by Colonel Rol (later known as Rol-Tanguy), head of the FFI (French Forces of the Interior) in the Paris region. The French Forces of the Interior (Forces françaises de l'Intérieur) refers to French resistance fighters in the later stages of World War II. Charles de Gaulle adopted it as a formal name for the resistance fighters.
To find out more about Jean Moulin and Philippe de Hauteclocque, the museum and to buy online tickets, head to the Musée de la Libération de Paris - Musée du Général Leclerc - Musée Jean Moulin website.
Location: Place Denfert-Rochereau, Montparnasse
Cimetière du Montparnasse
Montparnasse Cemetery or Cimetière du Montparnasse is located near Gare Montparnasse and Église Notre Dame du Travail. It’s a huge cemetery covering around 45 acres. Divided into two sections of unequal proportions the cemetery is one of the largest cemeteries outside the old town boundaries.
It’s the burial ground of famous Parisian writers, artists, scientists and intellectuals. Paul Deschanel (1855-1922) President of the French Republic, Alfred Dreyfus (1859-1935) Officer of the Dreyfus Affair, Henri Flammarion (1910-1985) Publisher and Charles Pigeon (1838-1915) Inventor of the pigeon lamp and entrepreneur, are just a few of the more interesting people buried at Cimetière du Montparnasse.
Location: rue Froidevaux, Montparnasse
Église Notre Dame du Travail
Église Notre Dame du Travail has been described as the most extraordinary church of the city, and it's easy to see how this phrase has stuck. Appearing like many other churches from the outside, it is when you enter and see the iron framework seemingly to support the nave that its uniqueness is obvious. Built in 1901 it has been wowing parishioners and visitors for more than a century.
Location: 59 Rue Vercingétorix, Montparnasse
Gare Montparnasse
Gare Montparnasse is the main terminus for regional lines going west and south of France. Regional destinations include Brest, Quimper, St Malo, Tours, Chatellerault, Poitiers, La Rochelle, Bordeaux and Toulouse and it's a busy place. Also part of this complex is the Montparnasse–Bienvenüe station of the Paris Métro and the rooftop garden Jardin Atlantique. (Mentioned in blog post below)
Montparnasse–Bienvenüe station is a transfer point between Line 4, Line 6, Line 12 and Line 13. If you've ever travelled through Gare Montparnasse or Montparnasse-Bienvenüe, you'll know just how busy this large interchange is, and how it teems with a life of its own. Travellers, buskers, shops, workers and locals keep the pace constant and pumping.
Gare Montparnasse is also where the German military command relinquished Paris in 1944 and to honour this event and celebrate the importance of the Gare and the role it played at the end of WWII, The Liberation of Paris Museum - General Leclerc Museum - Jean Moulin Museum is just around the corner. (Mentioned in blog post above)
Location: 17, Boulevard de Vaugirard, Montparnasse
Jardin Atlantique
Train stations by their very nature can be unsightly and uninteresting, but the huge interchange Gare Montparnasse has been beautified by the creation of Jardin Atlantique - a rooftop garden. The garden is on the roof that covers the tracks and platforms and is public. Being open to everyone, means that it's a lovely open space to enjoy some fresh air, recharge your batteries or let the kids run around before boarding your train.
Created by landscape architects Brun, Penna and Schnitzler it covers a space of 3.4 hectares and has been enjoyed by Parisians and visitors to the city since it opened in 1994. You can see in the first photo of this post above, the train tracks, Gare Montparnasse and at the front of the photo, some of Jardin Atlantique.
If you enjoy guided tours, you can take one of the garden which is organised by Direction des Parcs et Jardins (parks and gardens head office). Opening and closing times vary with the seasons: Opening: 8am or 9am. Closing: 5.45pm, 7pm, 8.30pm or 9.30pm. It's best to check hours and guided tour times on the official tourist website of Paris www.paris.fr
Famous Historic Restaurants in Montparnasse
La Rontonde Brasserie, Montparnasse
Café de la Rotonde is a famous café founded by Victor Libion in 1911 with a long history and they describe themselves as being both a "brasserie" and a restaurant. You'll find the brasserie on the Carrefour Vavin, at the corner of Boulevard du Montparnasse and Boulevard Raspail. It's easy to spot with its bright solid red awnings and golden name sign.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Monsieur Libion bought a small bistro at the corner of boulevards Raspail and Montparnasse, and called it "La Rotonde". His bistro was to become one of the highlights of Parisian life and attract Picasso, Modigliani, Trotsky, Gershwin, Scott Fitzgerald and others.
Serving traditional and rich French cuisine in a cozy red velveted atmosphere and large terrace La Rotonde is a delightful place to dine and located near the cemetery it's a good option after exploring the large cemetery, especially in winter like I did. It gets a thumbs up from me.
Location: Corner of Boulevard du Montparnasse and Boulevard Raspail, Montparnasse
La Coupole, Montparnasse
This historic art-deco café cum restaurant is simply oozing artistic vibes. Famous French historian George Viaud is quoted as saying “If the tables [here] could talk, they would tell the story of La Coupole’s role in the history of 20th-century art.”
And talk they could! La Coupole in 1927, at the height of the jazz age and the feverishly innovative period in the arts was the place to be in all its Art-Deco splendour. On La Coupole's inaugural evening in 1927, legend says hundreds of members of the Parisian artistic avant-garde showed up, partying so rowdily that the police had to be called. The downstairs dancing rooms were also popular for wild artist's parties.
The most striking feature of the restaurant is its Art-Deco interior with lamps, mosaic tiled floors, wall length mirrors, spacious booths and its famous ornately painted columns. Before it opened, thirty artists were asked to help with the décor, including Chagall who created a column painting. Other artists, included students of Henri Matisse, Ferdinand Léger, Marie Vassilieff, and Moïse Kisling.
Location: 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, Montparnasse
Le Dome Restaurant, Montparnasse
Café du Dôme is another famous eating place of Montparnasse and was founded in 1898. It has a history dating to the early 1900s as being as an intellectual gathering place attracting Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Picasso, Lenin and Trotsky.
Le Dome is truely attractive with a dining terrace surrounded by plants and an upscale interior. I particularly love the exclusive crockery with the restaurant's signature name - often a feature of French restaurants, and one that reminds me that I'm in the land of haute cuisine every time I dine out.
With orange bench seats, colourful stained-glass windows, greenery to look out onto and fresh seafood, Le Dome is a must to add to your itinerary if you're a seafood lover. Le Dome has a reputation of focusing and specialising in seafood and is regarded as one of the major fish restaurants of Paris.
Location: 108 boulevard du Montparnasse
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