Walks in the French Riviera – Secret paths and Sparkling blue water

Walks In The French Riviera

The French Riviera is a heavenly place to walk, and in particular the area between Nice and the Italian border is a favourite for walkers in this region of France. The many walks take visitors along the sparkling blue Mediterranean and past some of the richest real estate in the world. Susan McDonald is a regular visitor to this area and shares her favourite walks with us.

Cap de Ferrat Peninsula Walk

Finding the start of many coastal paths in the Riviera can be a challenge so thankfully many of them are signposted.

One of the best walks is along the peninsula of Cap de Ferrat beginning on the Promenade Maurice Rouvier. Flat, paved and picturesque from the beach in Beaulieu, walk towards the tiny fishing village of St Jean Cap Ferrat. Along the way, a standout villa is the pink La Fleur du Cap which has been recently restored for $10 million. It was the home of Charlie Chaplin in the 1950's and more recently, it was a hideaway for Dodi Fayed during his time with Princess Diana. You'll get a romantic glimpse into a different world of affluence and be able to admire some seriously good gardening.

Cap de Ferrat Peninsular Walk to St Jean

On the waterfront of the quaint village of St Jean, the terrace of the boutique hotel La Voile D'Or has the best views back towards Beaulieu. Pushing on past Chateau St Jean, you'll be able to glimpse a venetian style villa which takes its privacy very seriously. The villa was once owned by Hungarian princess, Vilma Lwoff-Parlaghy. With signs about mean dogs and with glass shards and barbed wire on top of the enormously high stone fence, it certainly sends a message to intruders to keep well away. 

Cap de Ferrat Peninsular Walk to La Plage Paloma 

A little further on, the steep staircase to La Plage Paloma takes the wily walker on a sweeping curve along the water’s edge and past historic sites situated high on the hills. The famous St Hospice can be glimpsed through the pine trees. Named after a hermit missionary who created small stone huts here in 560AD, it marks the first Christian settlement in the area.

Access steps for platform sun baking and swimming have been cut into the rock for locals. Huge gates keep lush gardens and enormous houses secluded from prying eyes.

Cap de Ferrat Peninsular Walk to Villa Santo Sospir and Villa La Florentina

Further on again, Villa Santo Sospir appears. Back in 1950, Parisienne socialite, Francine Wesiweiller invited the avant-garde artist Jean Cocteau for dinner. He ended up staying for 12 years and painting frescos on the villa walls - not your typical guest!

Australian mining millionaire, Sir Edmund Davis purchased a magnificent Italianate villa located on the tip of the Cap called La Florentina from French aristocrat, Therese de Beauchamp. With little access around the Cap, he helped to fund the building of a path around the Cap, which he enjoyed and now visitors can also. The property was nearly destroyed by departing German soldiers in 1944. Another Australian, this time the hugely eccentric Lady Kenmare, renovated the villa into a magnificent sanctuary after the war. There is something about the light in this part of the world that attracts artists and nature lovers alike.

Cap de Ferrat Peninsular Walk to Grand Hotel and Rothschild Villa

Lunch on the terrace of The Grand Hotel Cap du Ferrat is worth the trek. It is a special place to stay, but with accommodation on the side of very pricey, enjoying the million dollar views over an excellent lunch, is a nice (and more economical) option. Booking ahead is a must though. There is a rather wonderful curved marble staircase in the foyer and ascending or descending this grand staircase is a bit like movie star stuff.

Now wander a little further and you reach the quintessential, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and the delightful tea rooms in themed gardens. Another pink edifice, this No 1 Trip Advisor destination remains a great monument built by the fabulously wealthy Baronness Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothchild, one of the most original women on the Riviera. Taking seven years to build, from 1912 Beatrice holidayed in the villa hosting lavish garden parties and soirees until 1934. She worshipped the colour pink and would greet visitors dressed in a costume the colour of rose from her boots to her parasol.

In the words of French writer, Jerome Coignard, ‘the baronness Beatrice Ephussi de Rothchild created an idyllic universe in her residence on St Jean Cap Ferrat’. Filled with art and particularly priceless 18^th century porcelain, the five bedroom dream home is testament to a woman of great energy, generosity and vision. It is worth spending an afternoon strolling in the gardens complete with a singing fountain shaped like the deck of a cruise liner. An extraordinary place.

My tip is to walk in the morning when the sun is kind and the air retains some of the crisp morning clarity and once the eucalyptus heats up and scents the paths, it is time to dine somewhere special for lunch. In the heat of the afternoon, take a taxi or a bus back to home base for a good afternoon nap.

Eze and Jardin Exotique d'Eze Walk

Nietzsche has written that 'the ground keeps me rooted, my mind is in the heavens'. As I turned one of the bends in the path, I could see the hazy sea in front of me with white tails from boats and the sun beating down on the rooftops. I felt such peace, serenity and gratitude doing this walk.

I'd recommend visiting Eze early and catching the bus up the hill from the Eze-sur-Mer train station. On the way back, drop into the beachside restaurant, Anjuna for a well-earned cool drink and possibly some afternoon dancing.

Cap d'Antibes Walk

Take the No 2 bus from Antibes train station. You will be taken through the town along graceful avenues and past enormous villas. From the bus windows, the views into the gardens are a bit special. Get off at the stop Phare (lighthouse) in Cap d’Antibes and walk down the steep footpath to La Plage de la Garoupe.

The Cap d’Antibes walk is famous and the path Chemin de la Garoupe leads to Sentier Littoral at the end of the beach. With superb lookouts of the rugged coastline, wearing good shoes is a must and a hat for the shade is a good idea. This can only be walked on calm days and the sea and sudden drops can be dangerous. After about an hour, the high walls of Villa Eilenroc come into view, the gardens are supposedly haunted by Greta Garbo. 

There is a quaint small cove and beach called Plage de Galets frequented by locals and the path can be found beside the main gates of Eilenroc. Open very rarely, it is worth a visit if you happen to be there on a Wednesday afternoon from 2pm until 5pm.

Hotel du Cap Eden Roc Walk

The final destination of note is the legendary Hotel du Cap Eden Roc. Even though the walk along Boulevard JF Kennedy takes you past enormous villas and gates, the footpath can feel a little suburban. That’s until the beautiful building of the hotel comes into view. It is happily situated in an 11 hectare park of olive groves and rose gardens with sweeping vistas to the sea.

Dressing the part, take the side entrance past the guards because lunch can be taken in the seaside pavilion with astonishing views of the swimming pool which has been hewn from rock and features a diving board into the sea. Famous for guests such as the Fitzgeralds, the Hemingways and the Murphy’s (Sara is notorious for taking her pearls to the beach for some sun baking), the hotel has been in business since 1870 and well worth a visit.

Walks in the French Riviera

Thanks to Susan for the great round up of walks to take in the French Riviera. Susan is an Australian school teacher who loves spending time on the French Riviera where she can immerse herself in the life, history and sunshine. Has Susan got you dreaming of visiting the South of France? Then read our article on Villefranche sur Mer that Susan guest wrote on the best things to do, and how to plan ahead for your next trip.

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