Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera

Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera

Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera is located between the bustling city of Nice and the uber-opulent Monaco and this 16th century working village is a paradise that our guest writer, Susan McDonald regularly visits and loves. In this post she shares why this commune in the Alpes-Maritimes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, located south-west of the Principality of Monaco and just west of the French-Italian border is her favourite holiday escape and why you'll love it too!

This corner of French paradise offers a village atmosphere with an opportunity to live like a local whilst experiencing history, culture and the glorious Mediterranean all at once. Fashion icon, Coco Chanel, said that the sun is sexy and there is plenty of sun at Villefrance-sur-Mer. In this part of the world, visiting the beach and spending time in the sun is a popular activity but the plethora of museums, villas, history and restaurants create quite the adventure also.

Villas in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a secret place amidst the hectic glamour and glitz of the French Riviera. A combination of modern and ancient, and it's nestled against the steep villa-clad hillside on the Bay of Angels.

With a variety of accommodation on offer, mostly three star hotels too atmospheric for my taste, I prefer to create a home away from home and book accommodation through Riviera Experience with the lovely Shelley and Riccardo.  Shelley and Riccardo live in and have intimate knowledge of the area and run a superb accommodation service offering one bedroom studios through to superb villas.

Hotel rooms in some of the grand establishments nearby can be eye-wateringly expensive but exude a special luxury all the same. Some of note are La Reserve in Beaulieu & Spa, Grand Hotel Cap du Ferrat, Hotel Cap Estel and the Hotel Hermitage in Monte Carlo. These places are worth a visit if only to pretend to live the life of the rich and famous. My advice is to assume the persona of a celebrity from head to toe and order a coffee in the foyer or the terrace. The most expensive coffee of my experience was at Hotel Chateau Eza in the hills for 15euros – amazing terrace views and haughty service of distinction.

A Little Bit of ‘La Flaneur’ (Wandering) in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Staying close to home, there is enough to entertain. Wandering the waterfront of Villefranche is delightful with crusty fishermen, actual fish in the water to see and the occasional terrace table to dodge. The famous painter and avante-guard intellectual, Jean Cocteau stayed here when he was painting his exquisite murals in the nearby tiny Chapel of St Peter.

This is a paradise for walkers. Venturing up the hill to the modern centre of town, the Octroi, uncovers a pretty park and the tourist information office. Buses, banks and the Wednesday morning food market run from here too. Then, there is the colossal 16th century Citadel to explore. It guards the natural harbour of Villefranche, the deepest on the Riviera, called La Port de la Darse.

Thick slanted walls evoke a sense of impregnability from when the Italian Duke of Savoy protected his duchy against the French in the 1500’s. Inside, there is a quaint artefacts museum and art exhibition space with shady rose gardens. Further on, the old town is picturesque with some excellent shopping on Rue de Poilu (the street of hairy soldiers harking back to when the village was gated against pirates in the 17th century).  Amongst other places, the Sports Bar is a treat for an icy glass of rose or some handcrafted ice creams at Glacier Solea.

Dining Delights in Villefranche sur-Mer

The French take many things seriously - smoking, dogs and sun baking. But their obsession with the dining experience is on another level. Villefranche has a number of excellent restaurants that tease the tastebuds including the classy La Mere Germaine on the waterfront, named after the current owner’s grandmother who fed American GI soldiers during the Second World War.

Sipping something chilled on the terrace and enjoying a steaming bowl of bouillabaise (fish stew) you'll feel you're living your best life. For romantic occasions, it is hard to beat the fountain setting inside the old town of Les Garcons. My favourite dining experience for mood has to be L’Aparte because a table for one is fine, and the food is fresh and authentic.

Located on the end of the 13th century rue Obscure dates back to 1295. It is a covered alleyway, and one of the oldest in France, where villagers were safe against marauding invaders. The fountain still operates and is one of many in the old town. For casual coffee and the local specialty, pan bagnet (a delicious tuna sandwich) it is a slow walk along the beach front on Promenade des Marinieres to an unnamed café complete with white plastic furniture for a relaxed mobile picnic.

Nice is Very Nice

Most travellers heading to this region arrive into Nice International Airport. Nice is an excellent weekend getaway or an action packed week on its own. There is so much on offer: market strolling in Cours Saleya, Matisse and Chagall museums and shopping. The restaurant choices are outstanding: Bistrot d’Antoine (rue de la Perfecture) is a favourite in the vieux ville (old town).  Sitting on the terrace indulging in the region's best food and watching the world slowly walk by is indeed soothing for the soul.

Going Beyond Villefranche-sur-Mer

Going further afield can make for excellent fun. Day trips abound - Cannes, Antibes, Vence. Private beaches are dotted along the coast and are expensive. The fabulous La Mala Beach Club at Cap d’Ail is a favourite destination with a spectacular cliffside walk from the train station and very friendly staff. The descent from the township involves over 200 steps, but to sit under the red umbrellas and then enjoy a delicious lunch in the beachside restaurant, makes everything worthwhile.

There is a lot to be said for venturing out alone and solo travel, particularly in a place as safe and as friendly as Villefranche-sur-Mer - a secret on the French Riviera. Take a leap of faith and visit Villefranche-sur-Mer. It comes highly recommended. Long live la Cote d’Azur!

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