The Way of St James – Camino de Santiago

Have you ever thought of walking the Way of Saint James or Camino de Santiago?

The term "The Way of St James" or the Camino de Santiago, is not actually one path (chemin), but rather it describes many Christian pilgrimage routes, dating from medieval times that journey from various locations in Europe, to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It is here, in this cathedral, that the remains of St James the Apostle are said to lie in rest. For the Christian faith, it is a most sacred site, and second only to Rome for pilgrim travel. - Pilgrimage Traveler

Walking the Chemin de Saint-Jacques-du-Puy

The four main pilgrim routes in France are known by their starting points and today we take a look at the Chemin de Saint-Jacques-du-Puy (which starts in Le-Puy-en-Velay as the name suggests) and ends at Saint-Jean-de-Port and also the Chemin de Compostelle. This is a popular path and we are grateful to Sharon Warren for sharing her insider knowledge about these paths having walked them many times. 

Saint-Jean-de-Port is a village where many pilgrim routes end and others start, in fact the Pilgrim's bridge in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is the official end/start and connecting point in the patchwork of pilgrim routes of France. It is also where the Camino Frances starts. 

Pilgrims are persons in motion - passing through territories not their own - seeking something we might call completion, or perhaps the word clarity would do as well, a goal to which only the spirit's compass points the way. - Richard R. Niebuhr

Walking the Chemin de Compostelle by Sharon Warren

The Way of Saint James is known by many names – the Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle, the Via Podiensis, the Pilgrims’ Trail or, more simply, the GR 65. It is just one of many long-distance walking paths which arrive in France from all corners of Europe, converging eventually at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port where other paths then start the journey to Spain.

For more than one thousand years, pilgrims have gathered in the picturesque village Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (recently classified as one of France’s ‘most beautiful’ villages) before heading out on the month long journey across northern Spain to pay homage to the Apostle Saint James. 

Embarking on the Adventure of A Lifetime

Standing on the top of the Cathedral, we were full of anticipation for the journey ahead. It was the end of August, 2015. We were in Le Puy en Velay about to embark on the Chemin de Compostelle or Via Podiensis. This was our second time on this route and we were excited to head off. We had our credentials in hand after having had them stamped in the Cathedral and had received the pilgrims’ blessing at the mass just held. 

Down the steps we went, over the cobblestones in the historic heart of Le Puy, up the street and soon out into the countryside. It was sad to leave Le Puy. However, we had noticed a strange little donkey symbol in the town which we found out indicated the way of the Chemin de Stevenson. We would come back to Le Puy en Velay for a third time to
walk in Robert Louis Stevenson’s footsteps.

The Day-to-Day of Walking the Chemin de Compostelle

The Chemin de Compostelle follows the GR65 symbols of red and white stripes. There are also bronze scallop shells set into the paving in the towns. It is hard to lose your way as there are plenty of signs to follow. Our first stop is to enjoy our picnic lunch. The many French pilgrims walking this route, make a special effort to have found a lovely spot by 12.00 for their lunch. Often they have a feast then a short nap before walking again.

After lunch we head off on our way to Montbonnet. The wind picks up and soon lightning, thunder and heavy rain are our companions. We are 3km short of our accommodation but are able to take shelter in a church with other wet and bedraggled walkers.

We make it to our gîte for the night, L’Escole. The three of us are in our own room. There are seven French pilgrims staying here as well. Dinner is a communal meal of salads, Le Puy lentils, sausages, cheese, fruit and wine. We have a lot of fun making conversation in our basic French, and the French in their basic English.

Breakfast consists of fresh bread, jam and coffee. By 8.15am we are on the way to St Privat d’Allier, where we make a stop for cake and coffee at the Patisserie. Today, as well as yesterday, there is a lot of up and downhill walking. After a steep descent we arrive in Monistrol d’Allier and settle into our gîte, Le Repos du Pelerin. We have a beautiful view over the Allier River. Dinner is at 7.15 and it's delicious - lentil soup, sausages, ratatouille, frites, bread, wine and homemade desserts. We can hardly move!

By now, we have begun to establish friendships with other walkers we have encountered. There are German, Belgian, Canadian, Italian, Dutch and French pilgrims. We meet them on and off during the day as we are walking, or staying in the same accommodation at night.

Today is our third day on our pilgrimage. It is a beautiful day. We are heading up, walking above the Allier river. The track becomes steeper, as Chapelle de La Madeleine comes into view, carved into the hillside. Inside, there is a place to stand to receive “the energy”. Also, a member of the local pilgrim association stamps our credentials. The rest of the day is beautiful. The countryside is green and the scenery stunning. Walking in France is a feast for the senses. After our usual routine of showering and washing clothes we head out into the garden at our gîte in Sauges, for Sangria and fruit. The evening is warm. Dinner is again plentiful and delicious. Scallops, rice, ratatouille, sausage, cheese and dessert followed by a chamomile tisane. We are sated and ready for bed. 

This Chemin de Saint-Jacques-du-Puy route goes through some of France’s most beautiful villages. All the time, we are heading south west towards the Pyrenees and the Spanish border. Each day brings wondrous sights, friendships, warm hospitality, delicious regional cuisine and great memories.

There is the showmanship of the making and serving of Aligot, the sound and light show in the Abbaye at Conques, the dwellings built into the cliffs in the Cele valley, the Pech Merle caves and Rocamadour. There is 'The Way' and it is ready for you to walk it!

Sharon Warren is an experienced walker of pilgrim trails having walked from Le Puy to Santiago, Spain  twice and from Saint Jean du Gard once on the Robert Louis Stevenson route. Her top tips while you're in Le Puy are to visit the Chapel St Michel and try the famous Le Puy lentils.

Thanks to Sharon for her insightful and personal account of walking The Way of St James - Camino de Santiago.

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