Antiques and vintage your thing? Then you’ll love Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, or Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. This huge market, which the Parisians simply call Les Puces is the collection of a numerous smaller markets made of many stallholders. If you hear the market referred to as les Puces de Clignancourt by the locals, that's because they are referring to the Métro stop and périphérique entrance/exit here. The first time I went I really only scratched the surface of what was available, but my subsequent visits have made up for that and I have spent many happy hours finding items for my French house.
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The King of Flea Markets
There are so many stallholders that Les Puces covers an area of 17 acres making it the largest flea market in the world and it has a well deserved reputation for quality goods with many of the vintage and antique stallholders or smaller markets known worldwide for their ability to source and collate precious antiques and wares. With around 3,000 open air stalls it is best to take a map of the market with you. Lanes and wider streets are named to help you navigate the vast area.
Alternatively, if you have time, getting lost is a good way to find things that otherwise you might not have, and you’ll always be able to get yourself back to Porte de Clignancourt railway station again at the end of the day.
Smaller Markets - Paul Bert, Dauphine, Malassis, Vernaison, Le Passage and Entrepôt
Due to its size, there are small markets within the large Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. One well known smaller market is Marché Paul Bert, which is described as pure flea chic and which attracts many designers and decorators looking for a new take on things. This market is located at 18 rue Paul Bert and 96 rue des Rosiers, 75020 and their website with some of their latest items listed is Paul Bert Serpette.
Other smaller markets within the large market are Marché Dauphine, which is well known for its eclectic collections and Marché Malassis which is a favourite with vintage fans. My favourite market within the market is Marché Vernaison which has around 250 small stalls full of toys, silver, pictures, crockery, vintage items and is the closest market to the main entrance.
If you are looking for books, postcards and vintage clothing, then I suggest you head to Le Passage. For specific bulkier furniture items like mantelpieces, bookshelves and stairs, then Marché L’Entrepôt will be best for you.
Where to Eat at Marché aux Puces
Hunting for antique furniture, ceramics, bronzes, silverware, vinyl records, books and other unusual objects will keep you very busy at Les Puces but there are toilets and cafes to refresh yourself. I've enjoyed lunch at Chez Louisette but suggest that you head there early as the cafe fills quickly and often has to turn customers away it's so popular.
Expect live entertainment and a bustling environment with slightly eccentric but welcoming family service. Cafe Bert on rue Paul Bert is another good place to stop for a coffee or bite of lunch.
As with most antique markets that are open most days of the week, if you plan to go on the weekend then you best make it an early start and if looking for a true bargain, then Monday is probably your best bet. Stallholders start to think about bringing new items in ready for the weekend and often have to make more space so hence the Monday bargains. If you buy larger pieces of furniture, many stallholders are happy to arrange delivery and even international shipping for you, and I've successfully had antique dinnerware delivered to my house.
Bargaining is accepted, although less common in Clignancourt, and if you don't feel confident bargaining in French, then take a small note book and pen to jot down the price you are offering. Often purchasing a few items together with get you a better price and of course cash is best.
How to Get to Marché aux Puces
To get to the market you might like to follow these instructions on how I get there. I take metro line 4 to Porte de Clignancourt, exit walking away from McDonalds and towards KFC until I get to the highway overpass. At this point you'll see stalls that sell all sorts of junk and you just need to keep purposefully walking and ignoring these sellers. Going under the overpass I take the second left onto rue des Rosiers and then enter Marché Vernaison.
Related posts on French markets and antiques
- French Summer Markets - local markets and what to expect
- Finding French Antiques and Vintage Items in France - the best way to find markets near you when in France
- French Style Guide - Paris Stores and Markets - a great list of stores to find unique products for your home
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