What to See and Do in Le Puy en Velay
Le Puy en Velay, most commonly referred to as Le Puy, is a small town in southern France with a fascinating history and heritage.
It has been an important religious centre for centuries now as it’s where one of the Camino routes in France starts. The UNESCO-protected route leads pilgrims on a journey of over 1,000km to Santiago de Compostela where Saint James is supposedly buried.
Le Puy is also famous for its own kind of green lentil as well as for the lace-making craft.
It is a charming place that will transport you to another time. Here’s what you can do and see in Le Puy.
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Visit the Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy
Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy, which is otherwise known as Le Puy Cathedral or Cathedral of Our Lady of the Annunciation, is a Roman Catholic church and a national monument. It is a remarkable beauty located on the highest point of the town.
To reach it, you need to enter through the basement and climb some cobbled steps to emerge at the centre of the cathedral. It is an impressive site, and you’re bound to feel something when you get there, no matter whether you’re religious or not.
The cathedral has existed for a long time, some of its parts dating as far back as the fifth century. The bulk of it was constructed in the 12th century, but many different styles of architecture are present in it.
The Romanesque cloister that adjoins Le Puy Cathedral is also a sight for sore eyes with its impressive multi-coloured arches and vivid column capitals.
Marvel at the statue of Notre Dame de France
Our Lady of le Puy, as this statue is also known, is a gigantic (16m) representation of the Virgin Mary in cast iron. She is an important symbol of the town, which overlooks it from a hill of volcanic rock. (In the background of the below photo)
It’s interesting that the statue was built from 213 melted Russian cannons captured during the siege of Sebastopol in the Crimean war.
You can climb the volcanic hill and admire the view (or the sheer size of the statue) from right under the Lady’s feet. What’s more, if you’re so inclined, you can walk up the spiral staircase inside the statue and get to the top of the Virgin’s head. From there, you get a stunning 360-degree view of everything surrounding the hill.
Climb to the Chapel of Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe
Le Puy (which translates as “the peak”) was built around two hills, the higher of which we have already mentioned (the one which hosts Our Lady) - in the background of the photo. If you look at the town from a distance, you’ll notice a monument on the other hill as well (in the foreground of the photo) — that’s the chapel of Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe. Saint Michel (as well as the church) got its name after the hill (L'Aguilhe, meaning "the needle").
The chapel was built in the tenth century, and it’s also connected to the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage. Namely, one Bishop Godescalc had it erected to celebrate his successful return from the Saint James’ shrine.
As you’ve probably guessed by now, to climb the Needle and get to the chapel, you need to climb 268 stone steps. However, the steep climb will be extremely rewarding as the chapel is one of the most beautiful early medieval churches in France.
Enjoy the Old Town of Le Puy
Once you’re done visiting the fascinating catholic monuments, you can hit the old town of Le Puy. It's a cosy little place with narrow streets and tall pastel houses. Walking down these cobblestone streets will feel like stepping inside a fairytale.
The town has a population of fewer than 20,000 people, who are friendly and like to chat with tourists. There are beautiful crafts and antique shops for you to explore, as well as cosy cafes with lovely views.
You’ll also encounter many lacemakers working on the famous bobbin lace the town is known for. If you want to expand your knowledge about the art of lace making, you can also visit the Bobbin Lace Education Centre. The centre hosts exhibition rooms with gorgeous collections, but it also offers workshops if you want to try your hand at this craft.
Stop by the Musée Crozatier
If you’re a museum-goer who likes to explore the culture and history of any place you visit, then spending a couple of hours in the Musée Crozatier will be a real treat for you.
The museum dates from the 19th century, but it went through huge renovations from 2010 to 2018. Now, it features a beautiful 19th-century building overlooking a garden as well as an ultra-modern glass building.
The museum offers rich collections from all walks of life, including fine arts, archaeology, natural sciences, lacework etc. Essentially, there are four galleries, each displaying something different.
There’s a historic gallery featuring artefacts from the prehistoric era to the Renaissance. Another gallery is dedicated to the uniquely Velay things — the pilgrimage and their lace-making craft. The third one is all about fine art, whereas the last one lets you explore science and technology.
Travel Back in Time at the Fête du Roi de l’Oiseau
If you happen to be visiting this historical gem of a town in late September, you mustn’t miss the opportunity to party with the Bird King (Roi de l’Oiseau). The Fête is a Renaissance themed carnival dating back to the 16th century.
It used to be an archery competition in which archers would try to shoot down a straw bird from a tall tower. The first one to succeed would be exempted from taxes all year long and allowed to dine with nobility. He would get the title of the Bird King.
Today, the event has metamorphosed into a carnival, with Renaissance-style costumes, food, and music in the streets. There are also workshops teaching old skills and a street market to reflect the times.
Le Puy en Velay has a lot to offer, even though it’s just a small town between two volcanic plugs. You will definitely enjoy your stay here!
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Guest writer Rebecca describes herself "I am a translator, avid traveler, and bookworm. My job has given me the amazing opportunity to travel to dozens of countries around the world, and writing on Rough Draft gives me a chance to try to showcase some of them." Thanks to Rebecca for writing such a great article on Le Puy en Velay.