In the footsteps of Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School painters in Pont-Aven
Pont-Aven is known the world over thanks to the Pont-Aven School and the genius painter Eugène Henri Paul Gauguin. It's long been a dream of mine to visit the town and walk in the footsteps of the painters and discover more about their art and where they created it.
The rustic charm of the river Aven running through the town, secret bridges, ancient watermills, stone houses along the estuary and boats bobbing on their moorings, is what I'd conjured up in my mind from paintings and photos. But, I was not prepared for just how delightful Pont-Aven would be. It is simply darling! The town is also included in the prestigious group of 'Petites Cités de Caractère' or Small Towns of Character in Brittany.
Following in the footsteps of Gauguin, the Pont-Aven School painters and the Nabis artists was an amazing experience and I want to share it with you too. Here's how to walk in the footsteps of Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School painters in the darling town of Pont-Aven in Brittany.
More...
I parked my car in the carpark along rue de la Belle Angéle and then walked along the streets into town. I stopped at the magnificent granite boulders seen on paintings and photos, walked into the town centre with Hôtel Gloanec and Hôtel des Voyageurs, passed Hôtel Julia now the site of the Pont-Aven Musem, visited Musée Pont-Aven, bought authentic Traou Mad de Pont-Aven biscuits, visited Maison de la Presse and stopped for a meal.
Then I popped into boutiques and art galleries as I made my way along rue du Port where I found Le Moulin Ty Meur, and then I followed quai Théodore Botrel to the Port. It was a sunny day and very busy but I loved the energy being surrounded with so many people. A large brocante filled quai Théodore Botrel and was very popular. Continuing in the painters' footsteps, after visiting the Port I took the La Promenade Xavier Grall walk before taking the path back to the carpark via Le Bois d'Amour.
Once back at your car, if you take my route, you can drive the 5 minutes or so to La Chapelle de Trémalo. I didn't drive to Le Pouldu as I had to continue to Lorient for the night before the reception desk of my hotel closed. For more details of each point along the Pont-Aven School painter's footsteps keep reading.
In the footsteps of Gauguin in Pont-Aven
Paul Gauguin
Paul Gauguin's arrival in Pont-Aven in July 1886 was the turning point for both the painter's career and what would be the history of the small town. He was 38 when influenced by the Impressionists and especially Pissarro he made the choice to dedicate himself wholly to art. He went to Pont-Aven because it was cheap and the light had a strong effect on landscapes. He stayed several times in Pont-Aven and Le Pouldu between 1886 to 1894.
Le Centre-Ville (the Town Centre)
Walking from the carpark into town I passed where Gauguin painted "Les dindons". The town centre is filled with cafes that spill out onto sidewalks, and it's a lively place to rest, have a drink and watch the world walk by, especially when the sun's shining.
It's also where you'll find L'Hôtel Gloanec and l'Hôtel des Voyageurs which were important inns where painters stayed.
"Les dindons" 1888 by Gauguin was painted in this area.
Les dindons 1888 by Gauguin
Pension Gloanec now Maison de la Presse, Pont Aven
Hôtel Gloanec now Maison de la Presse
This building used to be a boarding house run by hostess Marie-Jeanne Gloanec that welcomed the Impressionist painters and then later the painters who formed the Pont-Aven School.
Easy to find, you might like to take photos of the exterior and inside you'll find interesting French magazines and books.
Musée de Pont-Aven (Pont-Aven Museum)
An absolute must if following in the footsteps of the painters, is a visit to the newly remodelled Pont-Aven Museum. Spacious and light with a natural grasses garden, the museum is organised in ten sections that are designed to take you through the artworks by theme. Each gallery room is painted in a colour found in the iconic painting of the period, The Talisman by Sérusier.
Talisman 1888 by Serusier
Section One - The unspoilt scenery and townscape through the eyes of the artists discovering Pont-Aven in the second half of the 19th century.
Section Two - This section is focused around the inns which were so important in accommodating the artists and encouraging them to stay longer in the town and also to provide somewhere for tourists to stay. Inn hostesses also displayed paintings in their inns to promote the artists.
Section Three - Section three focuses on Paul Gauguin. You'll find drawings and prints by the master and works by his closest friends.
Section Four - This room highlights the circumstances around the birth of the Pont-Aven School, especially the crucial meeting between Paul Gauguin and Émile Bernard in 1888.
Section Five - The artists who gathered around Gauguin and furthered the Pont-Aven School in their painting and their spiritual quest is displayed here through paintings and graphic work.
Section Six - The highlight of the museum is section six. It brings together the Pont-Aven group showcasing their creativity and diversity.
Section Seven - This room recaptures the exchange of trade and art between Japan and the West during the late nineteenth century. The founders of the Pont-Aven School collected prints by Japanese printmakers and then adopted some of their styles.
Section Eight - Art works by the Nabis ("prophets" in Hebrew) show the connection between the new ideas from Pont-Aven and how they made their way to Paris in this section.
Section Nine - Printmaking techniques are displayed in section nine with short films.
Section Ten - Jean Deyrolle, the legacy of the Pont-Aven School in the twentieth century, and the inter-war years makes up section ten.
rue du Port, Pont Aven
Le Moulin Ty Meur
Walking along the rue de Port you'll see le Moulin Ty Meur, a watermill which takes its name from the Breton word Ty for "house" and Meur for "large". In 1900, three millstones powered three wheels.
"Les Lavandières à Pont-Aven" (The Washerwomen at Pont-Aven) 1888 by Gauguin was painted here.
Les Lavandières à Pont-Aven - The Washerwomen at Pont-Aven 1886 by Gauguin
Grand Poulguin Mill, Pont Aven
The Grand Poulguin Mill
This mill is between the town square and the port along rue du Port and has one of the best views of the River. It's name is a combination of Breton words also, Poul for "hole" and gwin for "wine". Wine used to be unloaded from the port and stored at the mill.
If you choose to eat here, you'll be able to see the millstone, the two wheels and the valves which are all still visible.
Square Théodore Botrel
Square Théodore Botrel
Square Théodore Botrel is included here in our 'In the footsteps of Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School painters in Pont-Aven' guide because "La danse des quatre bretonnes" was painted at this square. Even though it's called a 'square' it is now a green park with statues, a small children's playground and a facilities block. It's a nice spot to rest and watch boats depending on the tidal movement of the estuary.
"La danse des quatre bretonnes" Four Breton women dancing 1886 by Gauguin was painted here.
La danse des quatre bretonnes - Four Breton Women Dancing 1886 by Gauguin
Le Port (the Port)
The Port was a source of inspiration for the painters, and it's easy to see why as you stroll along the quays from the town centre to the widening river as it makes it's long way out to the ocean. Boats bobbing, people fishing with rods, flower-filled bridges and mills are just as beautiful today. I saw a lucky teenager catch a large fish (I guessed it looked about 40cm long) after a minute or two of casting his line in on the sunny day I visited.
"La crique en face du port" (Cove opposite Pont-Aven Harbour) 1888 by Gauguin was painted here.
La crique en face du port (Cove opposite Pont-Aven Harbour) 1888 by Gauguin
La Promenade Xavier Grall, Pont Aven
La Promenade Xavier Grall (the Xavier Grall walk)
Named after poet and journalist Xavier Grall, who lived in the Pont-Aven countryside, the Xavier Grall Walk, is an interesting place to hear and see the rushing river water and peek into the back of the ancient buildings along the river at Pont-Aven. It's a great way to photograph the enormous granite blocks that form the natural dams along the river. You can access these rocks via rue du Général de Gaulle.
Made famous by painter Paul Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School of painters, its beautiful with plants and flowers everywhere. The planting of the bushes and plants has been planned so that the walk will always have colour and be attractive to visitors all year round.
New Mill at Le Bois d'Amour
Le Bois d'Amour (the Love Wood)
Painters came here to give free expression to their artistic imagination. Even today, you'll find the shady green woods peaceful and quiet, even in peak summer tourist season.
"Le Talisman" 1889 by Paul Sérusier was painted in these woods. (See above)
"Madeleine in the Bois d'Amour" 1888 by Émile Bernard was painted in these woods.
Madeleine au Bois d'Amour - Madeleine in the Wood of Love 1888 by Émile Bernard
Le Moulin Neuf (the New Mill)
At the carpark entrance to the Bois d'Amour (Love Woods), Le Moulin Neuf sits prettily with its dark stone and bright hydrangea bushes and flower pots. You can enter the small art gallery were postcards and artwork is for sale and walk across the nearby picturesque small footbridge. The Mill ceased working in 1900. From 1899 to 1950, there was an electric plant built on the site to provide electricity to the town.
"Baignade au bois d'amour" Bathing at the Bois d'Amour Mill 1886 by Gauguin was painted here at the brook near the mill.
Baignade au bois d'amour - Bathing at the Bois d'Amour Mill 1886 by Gauguin
La Chapelle de Trémalo (the Trémalo Chapel)
Made famous by Gauguin in his painting "The Yellow Christ", this chapel is just a little way out of the main town area. It's only a 5 minute drive and is open every day from 10am to 7pm.
It was the polychrome wooden crucifix in the Trémalo Chapel that inspired Gauguin.
"Christ jaune" (Yellow Christ) 1889 by Gauguin was painted here.
Le Christ jaune - The Yellow Christ 1889 by Gauguin
Buvette de la Plage and hostess Marie Henry
The painting of the inn called Buvette de la Plage, that created the rising awareness of the School, depicts the inn at Le Pouldu (forty minutes drive from Pont-Aven). The inn was run by Marie Henry at the time of the painters and she welcomed Gauguin, Sérusier, Filiger and Meijer de Haan as guests. The inn no longer exists however a reconstruction of parts of Buvette de la Plage are an exhibition in the museum, Maison-Musée du Poulu.
You might like to continue in the footsteps of the painters by visiting Maison-Musée du Poulu at 10 rue des Grands sables, au Pouldu
Pont-Aven after Gauguin
Even though Pont-Aven went on attracting artists after Gauguin's departure, the reputation of the "School" really owned much to him. When he died in 1903, art dealer Lucien Moline made a trip to Pont-Aven to try and collect the paintings left by the painter but his work was not really appreciated yet. Maybe because there was no serious collector of his work or of other painters from this period yet.
It was not until 1924 that the School became more recognised with the re-emergence of the painting Buvette de la Place at Le Pouldu by Gauguin (see above). Exhibitions in 1946 at the Salon des peintres of Brittany and at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Quimper, started to stir up excitement in this period of art. Jean Deyrolle (1911-1967) was most influential in this, and his childhood in Quimper and Concarneau influenced his landscapes and still lifes.
Today, the Pont-Aven School of Contemporary Art continues the artistic tradition in the picturesque mill town and you'll find lots and lots of art galleries and boutiques with original and contemporary creations for sale. I know you'll love visiting and following in the footsteps of Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School of painters in Pont-Aven.
Pin to read again later or share with friends
