France is a country rich with traditions and cultural customs. Christmas in France, called Noël, is no exception, boasting many age-old traditions. Some French Christmas traditions are even on the weird, but good, side of life.
French Christmas Traditions
If you’re in France in December then understanding a few traditions will help you plan your holiday. Or, if you are living an expat life like us, then knowing the cultural customs of Christmas in France helps you fit into local life. We've compiled some Christmas Traditions for you below.
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Attending Mass
If families are religious, then they attend mass at their local church on Christmas Eve. Even many non-religious or church-going families attend mass on Christmas Eve and being a special date, sometimes it's people’s only church visit for the year.
With festive singing and chanting this makes for an immersive cultural experience. Midnight Mass usually starts at midnight and to our surprise even children are present at this service and are well behaved, considering the time of the night, although with presents being given to well behaved children only a few hours later, this may make a difference.
Some churches will be flexible however and actually start their 'midnight mass' at 9.00pm.
Gift Giving
The giving of gifts is not always conducted on Christmas day in France. Families tend to choose between St Nicolas Day which is 6 December, Christmas Eve, or even on 6 January, the Feast of the Kings.
We still do gift giving on Christmas morning, as it’s very difficult to shake old habits or tell expectant children they have to wait till 6 January. We are Australian at heart after all! Perhaps one day we’ll join in on the French tradition of gift giving earlier in December, and let you know how it goes.
St Nicholas
The tradition of Santa Clause in France arises with St Nicholas, a bearer of gifts for good children, and lumps of coal for naughty children. A few French traditions still invite children to engage with St Nicholas by putting their shoes by the fireplace in hopes of finding them filled with treats in the morning and leaving a little dish of treats in case he's hungry. Some children find lumps of coal in their stockings hanging on the fireplace, but not very often of course!
The keeping of traditions alive is strong though in France.
Nativity Plays
The nativity play takes on life in France. Far from a static display the nativity in France is as life-like as it can get. Over the ages French school children have been part of nativity plays held in churches leading up to Christmas Eve. The plays feature live farm animals, straw covered stone aisles, and elaborate stage props.
The popularity of these nativity plays means it is often standing room only. The audience is expected to participate and join in on the songs. We would highly recommend seeking out a nativity play if you are in France in December.
Le Révellion
With cold weather and limited outdoor activities, Christmas Eve is time to gather indoors and share a meal with family. Well, a feast really: Le Révellion. The French take eating seriously all year round, and boast famously long meal times. Le Révellion, the Christmas Eve feast is probably the longest meal by far. Families eat and drink for hours.
The name comes from the verb réveiller, to wake up or revive, as enjoying this meal involves staying awake until midnight and later. Increasingly more families move this traditional meal to Christmas Day, when it is easier for the whole family to gather together. Festive Christmas dishes include caviar, oysters, and lobster.
13 Desserts
Are you thinking what I’m thinking? I have enough trouble getting through a couple of desserts after a full meal. Well, in provincial France, thirteen desserts are served and tasted by everyone for good luck. Don’t worry, they are only small desserts!
They include sweets like dried figs, hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, dried grapes, and a cake called Pompe à l’huile. The number thirteen is significant because it symbolises Jesus and the 12 apostles at the Last Supper.
Yule Log — Buche de Noël
The Buche de Noël is the traditional Christmas cake in France. It is an elaborate creation consisting of a rolled sponge cake, frosted with chocolate buttercream to look like tree bark, festooned with meringue mushrooms, marzipan holly sprigs, spun sugar cobwebs and any other sort of edible decoration.
Supermarkets and artisan patisseries sell artistic Buche de Noël cakes that save households from having to make their own. It would take a skilled pastry chef to achieve the correct icing affect so most people buy them. These cakes are so popular that even in New York there are patisseries that sell the Yule log or Buche de Noël.
Returning to Normal Life After Christmas Day
Life gets back to normal pretty quickly in France after Christmas day because they don’t have Boxing Day. In France the long annual holiday period is over summer in August and September. As a result, school and work resumes quickly after Christmas because people save up annual leave days for the warmer months.
Christmas celebrations in France focus more heavily on family and tradition, and less on consumerism. So the shops aren’t over filled with Christmas themed stock like in Australia. Our experience has been that there is not the same mad rush after Christmas to purchase the very quickly discounted themed stock.
Christmas Traditions to Remember
Traditions are very dear to families and cultures. Value your own Christmas traditions but why not give some French traditions a go this Christmas? If you’re in France during the month of December, seek out a Nativity Play, or look for a Buche de Noël to enjoy.