Combourg – A Small Town of Character
Combourg is a small town in the north western part of France in the region of Brittany or Bretagne. This small town of character or Petite Cité de Caractère is said to have risen from a small parish town when in the 6th century Irish monk, Saint Lunaire, built a church. Much later in the 11th century the archbishop of Dol-de-Bretagne built a château where his younger brother Riwallon lived.
The town grew around three centres; the château, the feudal settlement that developed due to the protection of Riwallon and then a priory settlement that developed after Riwallon summoned Benedictine monks to the area.
Combourg Traces History Back to 6th Century
Even though the town has changed over the centuries it is said that the part of the town centred on the former priory has remained mostly unchanged over the last 300 years.
This town is interesting to explore because of its very different architecture – it has 16th century residences such as the Maison de la Lanterne, newer 19th and 20th century buildings and with the former priory site, you can see there are buildings spanning over many different architectural periods.
Château de Combourg Looks Like a Fairytale Castle
Viewed from the peaceful waters of Lac Tranquille, the Château de Combourg majestically rises above the large trees and houses and buildings built on the lower water level (photo above). From this view Château de Combourg, with its turrets and chimneys looks more like a fairytale castle than the austere fortress that it really is.
Up close the true architecture of this Château, responsible for defending Brittany’s borders, tells its true story. Like many fairytale looking buildings in France, they actually served a real purpose in defending their people and were in reality austere places to live.
Built as a fortress the Château consists of four turreted buildings built around a central courtyard with four pepper-pot roofed round towers. Windows and openings are minimal adding to the austere architecture. The château is surrounded by parklands and overlooks the lake, Lac Tranquille and is often described as the prettiest medieval fortresses in Brittany with its beautiful parc à l’anglaise (English-style park).
Château de Combourg – Stronghold of the Chateaubriand Family
A romantic symbol, the medieval castle of Combourg became the stronghold of the Chateaubriand family and is where François-René de Chateaubriand, often quoted as the “most famous of all French romantic authors” lived and wrote. He was born in Saint Malo but lived his childhood years at Combourg.
Descendants of the Chateaubriand family still own the castle and it’s open for guided tours. Included in the tours is the bedroom of François-René in the Tour du Chat Tower. You may even see the owners as they live here when not travelling.
Memoirs From Beyond The Grave by Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand
In his famous book Memoirs From Beyond The Grave, which was written over decades, Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand writes about his “aristocratic upbringing in Brittany, the first two years of the French Revolution, a six-month trip to the United States, his combat alongside Royalists resisting the revolution, the loss of family and friends to the Terror and his eight-year exile in England, which ended in 1800.” – Alan Riding, New York Times
François-René de Chateaubriand was born at Saint Malo and the town boasts a large sculpture honouring the man. He died in Paris during the Revolution of 1848 on 4 July and was buried, as he had requested, on the tidal island Grand Bé near Saint-Malo, accessible only when the tide is out. You can walk out to this small rocky tidal island and see the burial site of the man bestowed the honour of being called the “most famous of all French romantic authors”.
Things to do in Combourg
- Walk the town trail from the old church to the shores of Lac Tranquille.
- Enjoy a picnic or drink along side the lake.
- Take a guided tour of Château de Combourg (note not all tours have an English
option) - Explore the town’s diverse architecture spanning centuries
Where is Combourg
Combourg is a town in the region of Brittany, in the west of the region. It’s 40 km or around 30 minutes drive north of the historic market town of Rennes. Other charming towns in our Small Towns of Character in Brittany series that are worth exploring on your next trip to France are flower filled Pontrieux and Pont-Croix, the famous book town Bécherel, and Châteaugiron and Chatelaudren which are quaint and near to our French holiday home.