A Guide to Mont-Saint Michel Abbey

What do you think of when someone mentions the region of Normandy? Do you imagine the world famous Mont-Saint Michel with its high rock dwellings, fluctuating tides and peaceful grazing sheep. And why not, it's a stunning site that draws many people to Normandy.

The people of the Middle Ages believed that Mont-Saint Michel was a representation of the heavenly Jerusalem on earth, an image of Paradise. I think many of us would agree that photos of the sun setting on the Mount or grazing sheep upon the marshes still looks a bit like Paradise!

Mont Saint Michel - A Very Brief History

Mont-Saint Michel is thought to date back to 708 when Aubert Bishop of Avranches had a sanctuary built on Mont-Tombe in honour of the Archangel. The location soon became a major focus of pilgrimage. In the 10th century, the Benedictines settled in the Abbey while a village grew up below its walls.  Growing, so that by the 14th century it extended as far as the foot of the rock.  Even a stronghold during the Hundred Years War, Mont-Saint Michel is also an example of military architecture. 

During feuds with the English the ramparts and fortifications were strong enough to resist all the English assaults and this is how the Mount grew into a symbol of national identity. The Abbey was also used as a prison between the dissolution of the religious community during the Revolution and until 1863. 

Mont-Saint Michel Classified as A Historic Monument

It was then classified as historic monument in 1874 and underwent major restoration work. It has been undergoing regular work since then. This means that now you and me can experience the splendour of the Abbey as it was enjoyed by the people of the Middle Ages. 

Now listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 1979, the Abbey is a unique building not like any other monastery because it had to be built around the pyramidal shape of the Mount. The buildings are wrapped around the granite rock and built to very precise technical calculations. On the ground floor, the narrow side aisle of the cellar acts as a buttress and above that the supports of the first two storeys (of the western side) are stacked on top of each other. Finally, the buildings get progressively lighter towards the top and the outside of the building is supported by powerful buttresses. 

Understanding that the layout and architecture of all of the buildings was influenced by the guiding principles of monastic life and the constraints of topography is very important. The rule of Saint Benedict is what the monks of the Mount observe and it dictates a life with days devoted to prayer and work.  The rooms were organised around these two daily activities and the principle of an enclosed order. Space was also exclusively reserved for the monks to respect this principle of the enclosed order. 

In keeping with this principle, the rooms on the ground floor and first floor of the Merveille were set aside for receiving the laity. Just in case you are not sure what laity means, this is the definition by Wikipedia:

In religious organisations, the laity consists of all members who are not part of the clergy, usually including any non-ordained members of religious orders, eg a nun or lay brother  - Wikipedia

The Rule of Saint Benedict

As I mentioned above, the rule of Saint Benedict is what the monks of the Abbey observe, so let's find out more. The Rule of Saint Benedict was enacted by Benedict of Nursia in the 6th century for his monastery at monte Cassino in Italy. This rule stipulates a life of prayer and work. It is observed by the Benedictines as well as other orders.

Areas of the Abbey

Let's look at some of the areas of the Abbey. There are 12 main areas open to the public and you find them all as you walk upwards, climb up stairs and generally wind your way upwards and then downwards.

There is a Guard room which is a fortified entrance that visitors pass through to get into the abbey before they climb the Grand Degré (stairs) up to the Saut-Gaultier terrace. Some of the buildings between the church and the abbey date back to the 14th and 16th centuries and were the stately residences of the abbots. 

The west terrace offers the most spectacular views of the bay if you look outwards and if you look upwards you can see the Neogothic spire of the church tower (built in 1897) and the gilded copper statue of Saint Michel (more on this below).

The main part of the abbey is referred to as the abbey church and was constructed literally on top of rock. It is 80 metres over the sea and is built over a whopping 80 metre platform.  It has a nave, covered with a wood-panelled barrel vault, and is actually over three levels - arches, galleries and tall windows. The chancel was rebuilt after the Hundred Years War as it had collapsed in 1421. 

The cloisters is a gallery which provided a connection between the various nearby buildings and was more importantly also used for prayer and meditation. The cloisters were also used for processions during religious festivals. As you can imagine, the galleries of the cloister were built to make them light in weight as they are on top of so many other levels.

Another very clever architectural design feature is the double row of small columns which give an almost ever changing view.  The cloisters are situated at the top of a building known as the Merveille which was built in the 13th century. Under the cloisters is the Knights' Hall which as well as being built to hold up the cloisters, was the work and study rooms of the monks. 

The refectory was were the monks ate their meals while adhering to the rule of silence, except for the monk giving the reading from the pulpit as the others ate. Directly beneath the refectory is the large Guests' Hall which was used for receiving royalty and nobility.

Crypts were often designed to support the weight of the church or chapel above, and it is no different at the Abbey. The great pillared crypt supports the Gothic chancel of the Abbey church and the Saint Martin crypt built early on in the year 1,000 is the foundation for the south arm of the transept of the abbey church. 

The Archangel Michael

Saint Michael is head of the heavenly militia and was of great importance to Medieval religious worship. To the Medieval man living in expectation and dread of the hereafter, Saint Michael was the one who led away the dead and put their souls in the balance on the day of the last judgement. 

Around the year 1,000, churches and chapels dedicated to the Saint were being built all over Europe, and were often perched on the top of hills or promontories.  The reverence given to Saint Michael was even deepened because of the resistance the Mont-Saint Michel Mount successfully held out to the English.  His worship was again expanded during the Counter-Reformation because the Church believed it was only the war-like angel who could fight against the Protestant heresy. 

Fast forward to today, and if your eyesight is good or your camera has a telescopic function, you can see the statue of the Saint on top of the belfry.  Honestly I've seen it appearing to glow when the sunlight hits it, it is an amazing sight. It has all the attributes of the traditional archangel (which is difficult to see from any distance however) and was made by sculptor Emmanuel Frémiet. Emmanuel was commissioned by architect Victor Petitgrand who thought that this statue would be the suitable 'crowning glory' for the new 32 metre steeple. In 1987 the statue was restored and returned to its home in the heavens. 

What is there to See in the Old Town of Mont-Saint-Michel

There are gift stores, cafes, restaurants there is even a local post office, there are also museums of history, the sea and ecology and even a museum dedicated to knights and how they lived. Let’s take a look at a few of these attractions that are within the old town. With lots of people on the narrow lanes of the old town, some of these places you wouldn’t even know they are there. I think it’s good to know that there is more to see than just the Abbey in case you miss out on getting a ticket now that strict time slots must be adhered to.

Historical Museum 

Les Remparts, 50170, Le Mont-Saint-Michel: 1000 years of history. The monks who built the Abbey, the Mont Saint-Michel prisons, the famous periscope to discover the Bay. Collection of ancient weapons, Middle Ages torture instruments, a person sinking in the quicksand, the iron cage of Louis XI, the oubliettes.

Archéscope

Grande Rue, 50170, Le Mont-Saint-Michel: This is a state-of-the-art museum dedicated to the history of the tidal island. There are multimedia presentation that take you through the evolution of life and culture of the island. The status of it being a UNESCO World Heritage Site naturally means that this is a site with a great deal of interesting history.

Museum of the Sea and Ecology

Rue Principale, 50170, Le Mont-Saint-Michel: This museum is great for children and everyone who loves model boats. There is a collection of 250 ancient boat models. You also learn about the local tides which significantly are the highest tides in the world.

Logis Tiphaine Museum

Rue Principale, 50170, Le Mont-Saint-Michel: This museum is a historic house of Knight Bertrand du Guesclin, constable of the armies of the King of France (14th century) and his wife Tiphaine de Raguenel, a famous astrologer who used to foretell the destiny of the world in the stars. Period furniture, bridal suite, Middle Ages chastity belt, Knight Bertrand du Guesclin's armour, Tiphaine de Raguenel's astrology cabinet.

Practical Information for visiting Mont-Saint-Michel

Tickets

Access to the old town on the island is free. Since Covid there have been changes to the way visitors can access the abbey of Mont Saint Michel. Tickets must be purchased online at least the day prior to your anticipated visit. If you don’t buy a ticket before you turn up, you run the risk of not gaining entrance into the abbey. I personally wouldn’t take this risk.

Tickets are available for purchase only one month in advance and when purchasing your ticket, you also need to select a time slot. Last admissions are an hour prior to closing. You can book your audio guide online, when purchasing your ticket.  

Shuttle bus/Parking Lot

If you arrive by car, there is ample parking, and all carparks clearly show the way to the Tourism Centre. Signposts indicate which way to go as soon as you get out of your car. All visitors have to either take the free shuttle bus, horse drawn carriages (you pay) or walk the last few kilometres via a footbridge to the island. The specially devised shuttle buses called passeurs.

In planning your visit, you really must allow 45 to 60 minutes for the journey from the parking lot to the abbey entrance.

Exploring the Bay 

The tides of the Channel are ever-changing, constantly rising and falling around the island. During high tide, Mont Saint-Michel appears surreal, as though it were hovering above the water and in the right light, creates a mirror reflection. You may have seen photos on Instagram that show this incredible reflection.

Low tide is just as interesting with the stone walls rising sharply from the flat sand. Low tide allows visitors to walk around its perimeter and observe it from a different vantage point. This can be dangerous though so if you’re interested, it’s best to book a tour with a professional guide who is familiar with the Channel’s tides. If you plan to do this, I recommend taking a small microfibre towel and bottle of water. That way you can wash the sand off your feet and prevent getting blisters when you put your shoes back on and walk around in them – potentially on a hot day with lots of walking – not a good combination!

With 3 million annual visitors, it is prudent to expect crowds most days. On the whole, it is best to avoid Mont-Saint-Michel in summer, during school holidays, and on weekends, especially long weekends.

Summer hours/Activity

In summer, enjoy a visit at the end of the day. The parking rate is reduced from 7pm and the abbey remains open until midnight. There is a night show from the beginning of July to the end of August every evening except on Sundays. The show is called the ‘Chronicles of the Mount’. I’ve not personally seen this show so can't share a firsthand experience. 

Bike riding to Mont-Saint-Michel

If you love bike riding then you can ride to the Mont via véloroutes and along the voie verte (a former railway line now used for leisure activities) starting from Pontaubault. You’ll mostly be away from busy roads and towns, and the routes are clearly signposted along the way. Bikes can be locked up before you walk across the footbridge to the island. Get more information on bike paths www.voies-verte.info

Did you Know?

• 8 is the number associated with Mont-Saint-Michel.
• Everything began in the 8^th century with the apparition of St Michel who is the highest ranked in the celestial hierarchy.
• In the Middle Ages pilgrims named the Mont the 8^th wonder of the world.
• Famous Madame Poulard started her restaurant in 1888 and her cookies still have this date stamped into them.
• The bay surrounding the island is home to around one hundred species of fish and some, like the sole, come into the bay only to reproduce. The bay is also home to an exceptional variety of birds which number in the tens of thousands.  Certain bird species, just like fish, come home to the Bay to reproduce. 

Where to eat on Mont Saint-Michel

If you are planning a visit to the Mount I recommend dining in at La Mère Poulard which has been feeding pilgrims and visitors since 1888. But when you are tired from walking up narrow alleyways, and climbing stairs, taking a spare table at any of the cafes along the main walkway will seem like a good idea. If you keep in mind that you are eating at a major tourist destination, you will not be disappointed.

To find out more about Madame Annette Poulard and her world famous restaurant, read our post Mont St Michel and the Famous la Mere Poulard.

Where to stay on Mont-Saint-Michel

Le Mouton Blanc
Grande Rue, 50170 Le Mont-Saint-Michel, France
Across the road from the Musée Historique du Mont Saint-Michel, and a 3-minute walk from the Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel
https://lemontsaintmichel.info/rooms/hotel-le-mouton-blanc-annexe-saint-michel/

La Mère Poulard
BP 18 Grande Rue, 50170 Le Mont-Saint-Michel, France
https://lamerepoulard.com/en/home2/

Where to Stay in Saint-Malo

Le Grand Bé Hôtel
1 Pl. des Frères F et Jm Lamennais, Saint-Malo, 35400 France
https://www.legrandbe.com/

Maison Vauban Hôtel
8 Rue Toullier, Saint-Malo, 35400, France
http://hotel-du-palais.saint-malo.hotels-fr.net/en/

More Resources on Mont-Saint Michel

For information on Mont-Saint Michel visit the official Normandy Tourisme website.

The National Centre for Monuments in France or the Brittany Tourism websites have more ideas on what to do in the area. 

To find out the qualifications for listing Mont Saint Michel as a UNESCO site and in-depth historical facts visit the UNESCO website.

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