New Caledonia – France in the Pacific

New Caledonia - France in the Pacific

When you think of visiting France I'm sure you conjure up images of the towering and majestic Eiffel Tower, cute café chairs spilling onto boulevard sidewalks and beautiful formal gardens. But, what if when thinking of France you conjured up images of numerous small islands clustered in clear turquoise water, white sandy beaches and swaying palms? Well, you'd probably be thinking of France, Pacific style, that is, New Caledonia!

If you know my story, you know I live in my homes in Brittany and in Australia and have travelled around a lot of France. But until now, I've never visited the French Territory of Nouvelle Calédonie (New Caledonia). Being a devoted Francophile, of course New Caledonia has been on my travel list... I mean how could it not? New Caledonia is only a few days ocean cruising from Sydney or just under a three hour flight from Sydney. Compared to my normal thirty-plus hours of travel from my Newcastle home to my home in Brittany, it's rather a breeze!

"Exploration is really the essence of the human spirit." - Frank Borman

In this post I share with you what I've learnt about the French Territory, what there is to see and do, and what I enjoyed the most. There's so much to share with you that I've written two full posts, one featuring Nouméa and another featuring Lifou Island (the largest island of the Loyalty Islands of the French Territory). I also answer the question everyone asks, "Does it feel like you're really visiting France?" So, let's go to New Caledonia together...

A Brief History of New Caledonia

• James Cook discovered New Caledonia in 1774 and christened the country “New Caledonia” because the mountainous scenery of the Main Island reminded him of his native Scotland.
• On 24 September 1853, Rear Admiral Febvrier Despointes annexed New Caledonia on behalf of France to forestall any move by the British. New Caledonia has been French ever since.
• The city of Noumea was founded in 1854.
• From 1864 New Caledonia was a penal colony by the order of Napoleon III - the penitentiary was abolished in 1897.
• Jules Garnier began mining nickel mineral ore in 1894. It was only from 1960 onwards that nickel production started to be the major boost in New Caledonia's economic development.
• In World War II New Caledonia became an Allied Base with around 50,000 American troops fighting in the Pacific.
• New Caledonia was made a French Overseas Territory in 1946.

Nouméa - The essential information

Nouméa is the capital of New Caledonia and the largest city of the territory. It's on the main island of Grande Terre. The most popular city attractions of Nouméa are all close to each other and easily accessible by foot as the city centre is flat. Mum and I found it very easy walking (and she's 79 years of age). The town has a Maritime Museum, City Museum, World War II Museum, Art Centre, Botanical Garden, Tjibaou Cultural Centre (highlighting the Kanak culture), morning markets and Aquarium. 

What I enjoyed visiting more though was Coconut Square, Saint Joseph Cathedral, Marmite et Tire (a bouchon restaurant), Lemon Bay and Ouen Toro Lookout.

Highlights not to miss in Nouméa

Coconut Square (Place des Cocotiers)

The city's central square is almost 40,000 square metres and is made up of the smaller squares of Place Feillet, Place Courbet, Place de la Marne and Square Olry. It's also where you'll find Point Zero where all distances around New Caledonia start from. 

The square got its name from the locals who started to call it Place des Cocotiers after military personnel planted lots of coconut trees in 1866. The name has stuck and the now tall trees are a feature of the square. 

Walking through the square you'll see Kiosque à Musique, or the Band Rotunda, where music is played during events and where groups meet up. The first music kiosk was constructed in 1883 but the one you'll see was entirely rebuilt in 1986. Look up on the roof and you'll see a metal harp that was on top the original kiosk.

Address: Place des Cocotiers is bordered by rue du General Mangin, rue Anatole France, rue de Sébastopol and rue Jean Jaures, Nouméa 98800

Saint Joseph Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint Joseph)

Said, by the locals, to be built to rival Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris and its importance to the Parisians, is Cathédrale Saint Joseph. It was constructed between 1887 and 1897 by a penitentiary workforce to the plans of former convict Labulle. Built atop the hill on rue Frederick Surlea, so that everyone could easily see it and feel its dominance in their lives, the cathedral is central to the lives of Nouméa's Roman Catholics.

Personally, I cannot see the comparison to the majestic cathedral of Paris, but appreciate its importance to local believers. When I quietly entered this cool sanctuary I was struck by the emotional young couple that were praying together. It was a touching reminder of the important role the Cathedral still plays for many people.. 

I found it interesting to learn that the framework and the pointed ribbed arches are made of red Kaori (a massive conifer that produces white or red wood). 

The Cathedral is a straight walk up the hill from Coconut Square and has a lovely statue of Joan of Arc (albeit, seemingly in the middle of the cathedral carpark!). 

Address: 3 rue Frederick Surleau, Nouméa 98800

Marmite et Tire Bouchon Restaurant

In true bouchon style, meat is at the heart of the menu at Marmite et Tire. Located on rue Jules Garnier, and overlooking Baie de l'Orphelinat, this is a great spot to eat in Nouméa. Good food with a great view across rue Jules Garnier to Promendade Roger Laroque on Lemon Bay is how I'd describe this restaurant.

Is the term 'bouchon' something you are familiar with? If not, here's a quick explanation. The French word bouchon literally translates into 'cork' in English. However, in the gastronomic world it refers to a style of bistro found in Lyon. A Lyonnaise bouchon is typically a small, family-run bistro that serves hearty meals with wine by the pitcher. 

These bistros or taverns started serving warm meals to silk merchants in the 17th and 18th centuries as they stopped overnight on route to the north of France. A bouchon bistro typically serves inexpensive, slow cooked meat dishes with local fresh produce along with a pitcher of wine. I fell in love with this style of food when staying in Lyon some years back with my husband's aunty. Aunty Anne introduced me to bouchon bistros and I now seek them out when in Lyon or, as luck has it, in Nouméa.

Address: rue Jules Garnier, Nouméa 98800

Lemon Bay (Baie des Citrons)

Lemon Bay is of significant cultural heritage because when New Caledonia was a remote isolated archipelago in the world, the only connection to the outside world was by tall ships and its passengers and cargo. So the arrival and departure of these tall ships was always a special event. At the eastern end of Baie des Citrons is where the crowds gathered to bid farewell and bon voyage. I can barely comprehend travelling in such a slow and dangerous manner. How lucky we can now travel quickly between both hemispheres!

The lagoon views are beautiful here with sparkling water and soft sand, and if you're hungry, there are plenty of dining options along the adjacent Promenade Roger Laroque. Not all beaches have such easy access to cafés, so this is a big plus for Lemon Bay, as well as being the closest beach to the centre of town. 

Address: Promenade Roger Laroque, Nouméa 98800

Le Roof Restaurant

Dining with the fishes is how I would describe dining at Le Roof Restaurant. The unique glass floors of the dining room mean that whilst you eat you can look through the floor and watch the colourful fish swim in the water below you. Did I mention that the restaurant is on stilts that go into the lagoon and you reach the restaurant by walking along a raised boardwalk - this is extra nice. 

I'm told that if you dine at night little sharks and larger fish can be seen through the floor as they're attracted by the restaurant lights. Sometimes dolphins even come and put on a show - what could be better!

Address: 134 Promenade Roger Laroque, Nouméa 98800

Ouen Toro Lookout

Nothing beats being up high above it all when you have paradise islands, lagoons and lush vegetation to gaze down upon. If you love views like this, then I recommend going up to Ouen Toro, the small hill to the south of Nouméa, where you'll get 360° views over the city, the lagoon and the mountain foothills.

Ouen Toro hill rises 128 meters above sea level and offers a sublime view of scattered green-jewel-like islands which are surrounded by all the blues of the sea. With different levels of steepness, the trails on the southern and western sides of the hill are perfect for either an easy Sunday walk or a challenging training ground for any athlete.

At the lookout you'll also see two Australian cannons dating from World War II that serve as a reminder of the war. Talking about the military, remember when parking at the lookout and taking photos, it is forbidden to take any photos of the military station or anything over its heavily barbed wire fence.  

Address: Ouen Toro Hill, Nouméa 98800

Water Sports - Scuba diving, Windsurfing and Foiling 

Nouméa attracts tourists who love water sports because of its crystal blue waters and white sandy beaches. Two small islands that are ideal to enjoy water sports from are Master Island and Duck Island in Anse Vata Bay.

Master Island (Îlot Maître)

Master Island has options for both gentle and extreme water sports. This island is a good choice for scuba diving because of the multi-colourful fish and turtles that live in the lagoon. Côte au Vent is much windier, so it's where you can kite-surf, windsurf or foil. When I saw the bright windsurfer sails whizzing across the water I immediately thought of my son Anthony, who loves windsurfing and foiling and has competed around Australia and internationally in windsurfing.  

Duck Island (Îlot Canard )

Duck Island has an underwater snorkeling trail that is approximately 500 metres long with explanatory signs about the local sea-life and coral for you to read as you snorkle along the trial. The signs float underwater and are attached to floating buoys above. The trail takes around forty-five minutes to snorkel and you'll be snorkeling in a depth between two to seven metres which makes it suitable even for beginners.

Le Méridien at Pointe Magnin

If your budget allows, Le Meridien Noumea Resort and Spa is the pick of accommodation in Nouméa. The upscale accommodation with rooms and suites overlooking Anse Vata Bay and easy access to the water, make it a top choice for water sport lovers. 

Address: Bp1915 98846 Noumea Cedex, Nouméa 98846

Do you feel like you're in France when in New Caledonia? 

I honestly didn't feel like I was in France when in Nouméa or on Lifou Island. The vegetation, architecture, weather, shops and food did not remind me of France or feel French. Speaking French was enjoyable while on the islands though, but even this did not help me feel like I was in France. I may be a bit biased however, as I do spend a lot of time in mainland France.

I did love the relaxed vibe of New Caledonia, the warm weather, stunning vistas, soft white sand, pristine beaches, modern and fresh food menus and especially the beautiful friendly people that I met everywhere. So while it doesn't feel like mainland France,  New Caledonia is still France in the Pacific and I love it!

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