Chartres Cathedral - A UNESCO Wonder
Chartres Cathedral is huge which ever way you look at it and viewed from the surrounding countryside, its soaring spires tower above the city. Even when you are walking in the city, you will often see the spires projecting above the rooftops. It truly is stunning! This UNESCO listed Cathedral, located in the Centre-Val-de-Loire region, is one of the most authentic and complete works of religious architecture of the early 13th century, and is the major drawcard for Chartres.
Chartres is situated approximately 100km southwest of Paris and is about an hour away on the express train from Montparnasse station so can easily be a day visit from Paris.
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As well as the awe-inspiring Cathedral, Chartres boosts many other interesting sights like the famous labyrinth in the Cathedral, a striking garden with what also appears to be a labyrinth at first glance, the Eure River and well known museums and art galleries.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres
Known in French as Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres (Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres), the enormous building is inevitably the first place that most visitors spend time at when they visit Chartres.
Partly built starting in 1145, and then reconstructed over a 26-year period after the fire of 1194, Chartres Cathedral marks the high point of French Gothic art. The vast nave, in pure ogival style, the porches adorned with fine sculptures from the middle of the 12th century, and the magnificent 12th and 13th-century stained-glass windows, all in remarkable condition, combine to make it a masterpiece. - UNESCO
Built in the 13th century, Chartres Cathedral is remarkably well preserved. The spires still soar into the sky, the impressive flying buttresses showcase the latest building techniques of their time and the statues of saints and kings are intricately carved in stone all around the doors into the cathedral. The Cathedral's official website has heaps of detailed information on the stained windows, floor plans and Cathedral's history - Cathédrale de Chartres (toggle the website for an English version).
The stained glass windows of the cathedral fill the interior with colour and are some of the most intricate examples still in existence. There are 176 windows of different shapes and sizes and incredibly many of them date back to when it was built in the 13th century.
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres Labyrinth
Set into the floor of the cathedral is the perfectly preserved stone labyrinth, the finest of medieval cathedral labyrinths in France actually.
This one is a rare example of a religious labyrinth which is different than a "puzzle" maze, which is intended to get a visitor lost. The religious labyrinth symbolises the path to God and religious enlightenment. The Chartres Cathedral is a circular design that winds back and forth for 260m ending in a flower shaped motif in the centre.
Labyrinths Also Known as "Roads to Jerusalem"
The 13th Century pilgrims would make their way around the winding path in prayer in pilgrimage instead of taking the actual pilgrimage to Jerusalem. That's why you may hear religious labyrinths called "Roads to Jerusalem".
Books featuring the Chartres Cathedral Labyrinth
The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown mentions the labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral, you may have read the book? This labyrinth is sometimes hard to see if the cathedral is set up for services with its hundreds of wooden chairs placed in their straight rows. However, cathedral authorities remove the chairs on each midsummer day - June 21, so that the labyrinth can be walked on.
Also the cathedral has started exposing the labyrinth by removing the chairs every Friday from Easter until September (provided there is no service or funeral) to allow visitors or worshippers to take the "labyrinth pilgrimage".
Another liberty taken by Dan Brown is the creation of the 'Rose Line'. The Rose Line is the fictional name used by Dan Brown in the Da Vinci Code given to the Paris Meridian and to the sunlight line of Saint-Sulpice. Read more at Saint Sulpice - Paris' Second Largest Church
Labyrinth by Kate Mosse is an archaeological mystery novel set both in the Middle Ages and present-day France and is a good read if you like immersing yourself in history and intrigue. (I have read this book and someday will write a review on it.)
Walking the labyrinth on our feet was the easy and only option with my children, we didn't want to crawl on our bare knees on the hard cold stones like the ancient penitent pilgrims!!
The American Soldier Who Saved Chartres Cathedral in World War II
When it became clear that Chartres could be subject to battle during World War II, all of the precious stained glass windows were carefully removed and packed for storage. Some windows were stored in the cathedral crypt, which is the largest in France, and others were shipped by rail to the south of France for safety.
Colonel Welborn Barton Griffith Jr
While the city suffered heavy damage by bombing in the course of World War II, the cathedral was spared by American Army officer, Colonel Welborn Barton Griffith, Jr. who challenged the order to destroy it. The order for destruction was given as it was believed the German Army was occupying the cathedral and using it as an observation post.
With only a single enlisted solider to help, Griffith made his way to the Cathedral under American artillery fire and confirmed that the Germans were not using it and it was clear of enemy troops. With this knowledge, the order to destroy the cathedral was withdrawn and the Allies later liberated the area.
Griffith was killed in action on 16 August 1944, in the town of Lèves, near Chartres.
In Memorandum of Colonel Welborn Barton Griffith Jr
Every year, on August 16, flowers are placed in front of the building where he died and a plaque, honouring his heroic action, has also been erected on the building.
It’s recorded that residents of Lèves saw him fall and die and within hours they had him covered with a blanket, bouquets of flowers and an American flag to await the American burial detail who buried him in a temporary grave.
Chartres Cathedral Garden Labyrinth
What at first appears to be a labyrinth in the garden behind the towering buttresses of the Cathedral and Chapelle Saint Piat is actually not a true labyrinth as it has more than one entry and exit point. This garden is called the Bishops Palace Garden and is on the lower terrace.
To explain that more clearly, a labyrinth has only one entrance and that is also the exit. There is just one path from the entrance to the centre which differs from a maze which may have different entry and exit points.
This perfectly clipped and maintained garden has been created on a large terrace overlooking homes and buildings. It's usually a quiet place for enjoying the sun and well worth a look as part of your Chartres Cathedral visit.
The Eure River - Chartres
The Eure River is a left-bank tributary of the Seine, with a length of 140 miles (225 km). From its source in the Perche Hills, Orne département, it eventually flows southeast from its source to the area south of Chartres, Eure-et-Loir département, and then turns sharply north, passing through the city of Chartres below the cathedral, which is located on high ground on the left bank.
Take A Walk Along the Eure River
My children and I have loved wandering along the footpaths beside the Eure River looking at the waterside homes with their secret gates and private boat moorings. We saw garden foliage overhanging the homes' ancient stone walls which appeared to create little private hidden spaces for their small boats and landing platforms.
We were so entranced with these beautiful homes that we even spent a few evenings searching websites of immobiliers (real estate agents) to see what these homes would cost to purchase. We had great fun imagining ourselves rowing up and down the river in a brightly painted wooden boat and tending to our river garden. I must admit we did not imagine going to work or school at all!
We've also indulged in pastries and tea in the sweetest cafes, purchased souvenirs and a scarf that my daughter still wears and walked the Cathedral labyrinth.
We have stayed in Chartres a number of times when coming and going to our French home in Côtes d'Armor. Either a visit and night's stay to get over jet lag on the way to our home, or if we have a morning departure from Charles de Gaulle, it can make a good last night's stay in France.
Experience Chartres For Yourself on a French Collection Tour
Our Discover Normandy & Brittany Tours feature Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres, the garden labyrinth and nearby art galleries on Day 7 of our Tour before returning to CDG Airport. Escorted, small group and all-women, our tours are designed to highlight the enchanting region of Brittany that we know so well.
Living part-time in Brittany for over 10 years, we bring the best to you in 7 days and a memorable visit to Chartres on the return journey to Paris is truly an amazing finale to our time together. Download your brochure and get more information here - Discover Normandy & Brittany Tours with A French Collection.
